How to Install Stone Cladding Slips

A complete step-by-step guide for builders, self-builders, and DIYers. No stonemason needed — just good preparation and the right technique.

7Simple Steps
15–30mmSlip Thickness
24hAdhesive Cure Time
0Specialist Skills Needed

The Installation Process

Follow these seven steps for a professional-quality natural stone finish every time.

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01

Prepare the Surface

The substrate must be clean, sound, and structurally stable. Remove all dust, dirt, grease, loose material, and any traces of moisture or organic growth. Suitable substrates include concrete blockwork, brick, cement fibre board, and render. Do not apply to plasterboard, loose, friable, or damp surfaces.

Pro tipA sound substrate is the single most important factor in a successful installation.
02

Clean the Stone Backs

Before fixing, check that the back face of each stone slip is clean and free from dust, loose particles, or any debris from production and handling. This step is critical — even a thin layer of dust on the back of the slip will significantly reduce bond strength.

Pro tipThis is the step most commonly skipped. Never rush it.
03

Apply Adhesive

Using a notched trowel, apply stone cladding adhesive evenly to the wall surface. Then "butter" the back of each stone slip with a thin layer of adhesive too — this double-bond method (also called back-buttering) ensures maximum contact and adhesion between stone and substrate.

Pro tipFull coverage is essential. Voids behind the stone can allow water ingress and lead to failures over time.
04

Fix the Stone Slips

Press each stone slip firmly and evenly into the adhesive bed on the wall. Apply steady pressure across the full face of the stone to ensure solid contact. Work in horizontal courses, staggering the vertical joints naturally — just as they would appear in traditional stone masonry. Use L-shaped corner pieces at all external angles.

Pro tipMix stone from several pallets as you go. Natural variation between pallets gives a more authentic, balanced finish.
05

Cut to Fit

At openings, edges, and corners you will need to cut slips to size. Use a wet-cut diamond blade saw or an angle grinder fitted with a stone cutting disc. Always cut with the face of the stone upward to minimise chipping. Wear appropriate PPE including eye protection and a dust mask.

Pro tipMake cuts slightly oversize first, then refine — natural stone cannot be un-cut.
06

Point the Joints

Once the adhesive has fully cured (typically 24 hours — check manufacturer guidelines), fill all joints with pointing mortar. You can use traditional sand-and-cement mortar or a pre-coloured pointing compound. Work the pointing firmly into the joints and tool off any excess before it fully hardens. The colour of your pointing has a major impact on the final look — choose carefully.

Pro tipPointing is not optional. Unfilled joints allow water ingress and will compromise the long-term performance of the cladding.
07

Wash & Finish

Once the pointing has set, wash down the face of the stone with clean water and a stiff brush to remove any mortar residue, dust, and surface deposits. This final step reveals the true colour, texture, and character of the natural stone. It is a simple step, but it makes a significant difference to the finished appearance.

Pro tipDo not use acid cleaners on limestone or marble-based stones — always check stone type first.

Tools & Equipment

Angle grinder / disc cutterWith stone cutting disc fitted
Notched trowelFor applying adhesive evenly
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Mixing bucketRequired if using powder (wet) adhesive
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Mastic gunRequired if using tube adhesive
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Stiff brushFor the final wash-down
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PPEEye protection and dust mask for cutting
Tape measureFor accurate sizing and layout
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Pencil or chalk lineFor marking courses

Adhesive & Pointing — Coverage Guide

Powder adhesive (20kg bag)Covers approx. 6–8 m²Coverage varies with substrate and trowel size
Tube adhesiveCovers approx. 0.75 m²Ideal for small areas and repairs
Add for wasteAlways add 5–10%Accounts for cuts, breakage, and variation

Common Installation Mistakes

Skipping substrate preparation
Always clean and key the wall before starting
Not cleaning the back of each slip
Wipe dust from every stone before fixing
Insufficient adhesive coverage
Back-butter every slip and use a notched trowel on the wall
Working from one pallet only
Mix from multiple pallets throughout for a natural, varied look
Leaving joints unpointed
Pointing is essential — it seals the wall and finishes the look
Rushing the adhesive cure time
Wait the full cure time before pointing (usually 24 hours)
Ordering the exact area needed
Add 5–10% for cuts, waste, and natural breakage

Ready to order?

Order a sample before committing to a full order. Not sure which colour suits your project? Use our free Stone Matching Service.

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Where Can Stone Cladding Be Used?

✓ Suitable Substrates

  • Concrete blockwork
  • Brick
  • Cement fibre board
  • Sand-cement render
  • Any stable, solid masonry

✕ Not Suitable For

  • Plasterboard
  • Loose or friable surfaces
  • Damp or waterlogged walls
  • Unstable or moving substrates
  • Surfaces contaminated with grease or paint

✦ Common Applications

  • Exterior house walls
  • Extensions and new builds
  • Garden walls and boundary features
  • Interior feature walls
  • Fireplace surrounds
  • Commercial fascias

Ready to Start Your Project?

Order a sample to see the stone in your own environment, request a quote for your project, or use our Stone Matching Service if you need help finding the right colour.

Order a SampleRequest a QuoteFind Your Stone